Copyright Quiz

Test your Copyright savvy with the Copyright Quiz!

If you haven’t read the Quickie Guide to Copyright, you might want to study up before taking the quiz!

LEGAL OR ILLEGAL?

1. I make a skirt from a licensed Rolling Stones shirt.

2. I make a necklace from an image of Hello Kitty I printed off the internet, and sell it.

3. I screenprint a Social Distortion t-shirt for my friend.

4. I make a purse from a storebought pattern and sell it.

5. I print the Batman logo onto an iron-on transfer, put it on a dress, and sell it.

6. I buy an Old Navy shirt, paint an original design on it, and sell it.

7. I purchase Sesame Street fabric, make it into a bag, and sell it.

8. I take an image of Mickey Mouse I found on the internet and put it on my website.

Answers (highlight below):

1. Legal

2. Illegal

3. Illegal

4. Legal

5. Illegal

6. Legal

7. Legal

8. Illegal

Quickie Guide to Copyright Law

What’s a serger?

A serger is a specialized sewing machine. Sometimes it’s called an overlock machine. It will generally use 4 threads and 2 needles. There are some machines that can also use 5 threads, and most machines have options that use 1 needle and 2 or 3 threads.

A serger makes a very professional looking seam. The threads lock around the seam to prevent fraying, and the machine also cuts off the seam allowance as it sews. Additionally, serged seams are ideal for stretch fabrics because the stitches can stretch with the fabric. Sergers are very fast and make sewing knits much easier.

A serger is not a stand-alone machine- it can’t replace a standard sewing machine in most situations. You need to have the standard sewing machine for things like topstitching, zippers, and sewing inside corners.

What does a serged seam look like?

I often hear people ask how to make stitches that look like the seams on the inside of a t-shirt. That’s a serged seam.

(The hems of most t-shirts are coverstitched. Some higher end sergers have a coverstitch feature. But if you’re on a budget, here’s how to “fake” a coverstitch.)

Do I have to have a serger?
Well, it depends on what kind of sewing you do and how often you do it. You technically don’t even really need a standard sewing machine. Lots of people like to sew by hand. I don’t.

• If crafting and sewing is just a hobby, and you don’t know if you’ll stick with it forever, a serger can probably wait, especially if you don’t have $2oo to burn. You can always keep an eye out for used sergers on Ebay and Craiglist, or wait until you’re fully addicted to sewing and have decided a serger is something you can’t live without.
• If you sew a lot for yourself or your kids, and you work with a lot of knits and stretch fabrics, a serger will make your life a million times faster and easier.
• If you’d like to produce clothes or other sewn items for sale, a serger will make your stuff look more professional.

So the short answer, in my opinion, is No.

I’ve seen “overlock” foot attachments for standard sewing machines, but I’ve honestly never used one or seen one used. I can’t say how comparable it is to a genuine serged seam.

If you’re going to sell your items, and you don’t have a serger, just make sure you pay special attention to your seams. Use pinking shears on the edges of woven fabric to keep it from fraying. On knit fabrics, trim your seam allowances to about 1/4″ after sewing, and then finish the edges with a tight zig-zag.  Most people wouldn’t even know the different between that and a serged edge.

technique tutorial: serger thread tails

You can’t backstitch with a serger, so you might be left wondering what to do with that little thread tail.

There are several ways of dealing with it, I recommend looking at your manual and seeing what option you like best. My favorite way is to take a big fat needle (a yarn needle or very large upholstery needle will work, the less pointy the end, the better), thread the thread tail through it, and then slide it up into the seam.

Click the step-by-step photos below for larger images!

Serger Tips

Sewing first vs. serging first
There is some argument about this in the sewing community, and I think it depends mostly on what you’re sewing and personal preference. When in doubt, experiment, and find what works best for you.

Sew first, then serge: I think this would be a good place to start if you’re a serger noob. A serger does take some adjustment when sewing. Because the machine cuts the seam allowance off as you sew, you’ve got a lot less room for error.

I sew first when I’m assembling awkward seams. It’s a lot easier to keep the fabric where you want it when you’re serging if you’ve already stitched it.

This would also be a good technique if you’re sewing something like a woven fabric that doesn’t need the stretchable seam that the serger allows, but you’d still like a finished looking seam.

Serge first, then sew: I use this technique sometimes when I’m sewing a zipper or a slit into something, and I won’t be able to have a serged seam. I serge the edges of the fabric, then sew the pieces together, so I still get a professional looking edge.

Serge, then topstitch: This is the technique I use most often. I serge the seam, then I press it to one side and stitch it down from the right side of the garment.

I don’t topstitch all of my serged seams, but most of them.  Some things are too bulky to topstitch, so I just leave it.

Straight stitching for reinforcement: There are a few kinds of fabrics and garments that absolutely require that you straight stitch AND serge the seams. I don’t even bother trying to serge very loosely woven fabrics. The serged edge will fray right off.

Bags need not be serged, since ideally all of your seams will be hidden by a lining. If you do make bags and want to serge the seems, you must straight stitch as well, as a serged edge is not strong enough by itself to hold weight.

The crotch seam on a pair of pants MUST MUST MUST be straight stitched at least twice if you’re using a serger, or I guarantee you will be feeling some interesting drafts… I also like to straight stitch the armpit seam of shirts after serging.

Seam Allowances
I’ve found that I need a much smaller seam allowance when I’m serging my seams. I generally use about 1/4″ seam allowance when I’m serging, vs. a more standard 1/2″ or 5/8″ seam allowance. You will find what you’re most comfortable with, just keep it in mind when you’re cutting the pieces of your garment out.

What is the difference between overlock thread and normal sewing thread? Should I use only overlock thread with my serger?
Overlock thread is not made to be as strong as normal thread, so its cheaper to buy in those big spools. You can use normal thread in a serger, but it’s a lot more expensive and unnecessary. You’ll probably run out in about 20 minutes. You probably don’t want to use overlock thread on a regular machine unless you’re having one of those out-of-thread-at-midnight emergencies, because it isn’t as strong.

Hemming with a serger
I personally don’t mind the look of a plain old serged edge as a hem. Use a contrasting color and it kind of looks like the hem has some sort of trim at the edge.

If it’s something that wouldn’t look right with the serged edge, serge it (or don’t), press the bottom 1/2″ or so under, and just stitch around it like you normally would hem something. If you don’t like the look of a straight stitch, you can use a zig-zag or another decorative stitch. Do it in a contrasting color and no one will think you were avoiding hemming it!

Some machines come with a hemming attachment, I only used mine once to test it out… I’m too lazy to switch the footplate and the foot and the settings everytime I want to hem.

Why does the serged hem of my knit garments turn out all wavy and stretched out?
You need to adjust the differential feed. On most machines it’s probably numbered 0.7 to 2.0. If you serge the edge of something really stretchy with the diff. feed at 0.7, it will make a “lettuce edge”.

If you take some non-stretch fabric, and serge the edge with the diff. feed at 2.0, it will actually ruffle it for you, which is kind of cool.
If you want the serged hem of something stretchy to not get all wavy like the lettuce edge, put the diff. feed a few clicks closer to the 2.0. Some knits I can do fine with on the normal setting (1.0), but if they’re pretty stretchy, I’ll go one or two clicks towards 2.0. If they’re really really stretchy, I go even further towards 2.0.

It takes some messing around with to get it right, but once you get the hang of it, it helps a lot.

What kind of needles should I use in my machine?
Check your manual for this, as it differs from machine to machine. Using the correct needles in your serger is just as important as your regular sewing machine.

So You Wanna Be An Indie Fashion Designer – Part 2

In the Beginning
So you think you’ve got the skill down, and you’re ready to start selling? Fantastic. But not so fast, my friend. There are a few things to consider first.

Find a Niche
Before you can start making cash, you need to know what you’re going to sell and who you plan on selling it to. In my opinion, the best and easiest way to be a successful indie designer is to find a small, specific group of people to sell to, at least in the beginning.

Too often people try to cater to everyone, when they’d be better off focusing on a smaller group. You are not Wal-Mart. You can not compete with Wal-mart (at least not directly). You need to be the Anti-Wal-mart! High quality, hand made, unique goods are how you indirectly compete with big business. Offering a product or a unique design that people can only get from you is going to be what separates you from the competition and motivates customers to come back for more.

Sell What You Know
If you’re going to make clothing, think about what you wear and what you like. Find what makes your style unique and start there. If you dress in neon colors from head to toe and despise earth tones, it wouldn’t really make sense for you to be making bohemian hippie clothes, would it? And if you don’t know who/what/where NOFX is, then why would you try to make and market clothing to P-rockers?

I’m not saying you have to want to wear every single item you make, but you’ll have a better chance of selling your stuff if your customer’s taste is similar to yours. Don’t just jump on the bandwagon and sell whatever happens to be trendy right now. Firstly because trends don’t last. And secondly, because if you aren’t into what you’re making, it will show in your work.

Do Your Homework
Take a look around the internet (assuming that’s where you want to sell), and do some research. What sells and for how much? Where can you get deals on supplies? Keep in mind that if you’re shopping at your local craft store for supplies, you’re paying retail. Wholesale prices are generally much lower, which means a higher profit margin.

You might try finding basics (for me, it’s black knit fabric) in bulk to start with, since you may not be able to afford buying everything in bulk when you’re starting out. Some wholesale suppliers require a Sales Tax ID. How you get one (in Michigan, you fill out one form, super easy and free) varies from state to state, so do some research and figure it out.

And Now for the Boring Business Stuff…
I know, it’s the stuff no one wants to think about, but if you want to be your own boss, someone’s gotta do it. And that means you.

Location, Location, Location
I know a lot of people dream of opening their own brick-and-mortar boutique, but for most of us, the start up costs make that impossible. Rent, utilities, employees…. That’s why the internet is a great way to dip your toes into the River of Selling Crafts. But even then you must consider where you’re going to sell.

Here are some popular options, and their grades from Ms. Smarmy (that’s me!).

Etsy (A): A site specifically geared towards handmade, and ONLY handmade, goods. Fair fees (20 cents gets you a 3 month listing!), less

deadbeats than Ebay, and a nice community feel. You don’t have to worry about coding, their selling template is as easy as writing a description for your item and uploading pictures. You’ll need to put a fair amount of work into marketing yourself, because this is a large marketplace. If you don’t keep your name out there, you might get lost in the shuffle.

Your own website (B-): An excellent choice if you’ve got time on your hands to dedicate to your business, and if you’ve got a fair amount of coding know-how. If you don’t know anything about making a website, you can hire someone to do it for you, but you’ll need at least a little knowledge to keep things running. I recommend Adobe Dreamweaver, I’d be lost without it.

You’ll also need to spend a lot of time and effort promoting. With Etsy at least some of that work is done for you. With you’re own site, you’re on your own. The benefit of your own site is that once the customer’s there, it’s just you. Zero competition. And you cut your fees in half, assuming you’ll still use Paypal or another credit card processor. You’ll need to factor in start up costs of about $70 to cover your domain name registration and hosting plan.

Consignment or Wholesale (C): This can be a good option if you don’t have the time to answer customer emails and photograph/list/ship items. Wholesale prices are usually discounted about 50% from your retail prices and sold outright to the wholesale buyer when they buy from you in bulk. Consignment means you send your items to a shop, and they’ll charge a fee (usually around 40%) when your item sells. I don’t think this is a very good option for most sellers (at least those who are capable of doing the selling/shipping themselves), because nearly 50% of the price is a LOT to a handmade seller. See the next section on pricing, and you’ll see what I mean.

My advice is: if you are doing consignment, look for a place that’s been around for a while.  See if you can email someone that’s consigned with them in the past to ask about their experience.  Make sure they’ve got some sort of contract/agreement that clearly states they are responsible for your goods while they are in their possession and how long the items will stay in the shop before being returned unsold.

Ebay (D-): This is where I started, but Ebay has really started losing favor among sellers of handmade and non-handmade goods alike. Fee hikes, stricter guidelines for sellers, and the inability for sellers to leave feedback for buyers have made it a risky place to sell. I give it a big thumbs down. The fees and competition will make it difficult for a newbie seller to gain any ground, but try it if you dare.

how to resize a t-shirt

This is a pretty straight-forward reconstruction. If you’re looking for something to get your diy feet wet with, try this one.

Here’s a simple way to make that too-big Misfits tee you stole from your boyfriend into one that fits.

Difficulty:

Step 1

First, take your big shirt and turn it inside out.

Step 2

Next, find a t-shirt that fits well. Lay that sucker on top of the bigger shirt.

It’s easiest if you line the shirts up by the collars.

Mark or pin (or both) around the smaller shirt.

Step 3

Cut around the marked/pinned lines, leaving space for your seam allowance.

Sew where you’ve pinned, making sure you leave the collar, armholes, and bottom unsewn (it’d be hard to put the shirt on, otherwise). Harhar!

Hem the armholes and bottom of the shirt (optional, of course, since t-shirt won’t fray!).

Step 4

Turn the shirt right side out and put it on. look in the mirror and dance around, because you’ve got a new shirt!

Alternate methods:

1. After flipping the too-big shirt inside out, put it on. Have someone pin it to you so that it fits. Sew where you’ve pin. hem, etc.

2. Grab and old shirt that fits, but that you are willing to “destroy”. Cut it apart along the seams. Use this as a pattern on your too-big shirt, and resize each piece (back, front, and sleeves) separately.

Twin needles = mock coverstitch

Take a look at the hem of most t-shirts and you’ll see what’s called a coverstitch or coverhem. Most people assume that this is done by a serger. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case.

Some higher end sergers will indeed convert to a coverstitch machine. Or you can buy a stand alone coverstitch machine. I have the Brother 2340cv shown to the left, and it’s pretty kickass. I kept putting it off, thinking it was silly to have  machine that does one little thing, but it really is useful if you sew a lot.

Unless your bursting at the seams with cash, though, I don’t think I would say such an investment was necessary.  There happens to be a $5 Cheater McPeter way of doing it, which I employed for several years when I was without a coverstitch machine. Behold, the Twin Needle!!

It looks like two needles on one needle shaft, and that’s exactly what it is. You will insert the needle in your standard zig-zag sewing machine* like any other needle. You’ll also need to rig up a second spool of thread.

Once you’ve threaded both needles, you can sew as usual (though I like to take it slow). You might need some tension adjustment, as well. When you sew a regular straight stitch, the top of the stitching will be two parallel rows of straight stitching. However, the bottom (bobbin) thread will be a zig zag. It’s not quite as stretchy as a true coverstitch, but it looks almost identical.

You’ll need to follow the same rules as regular needles with twin needles: ballpoints for knits! Some ballpoint twin needles say they’re “stretch needles” instead of ballpoint.

I’d also recommend buying an extra set or two. At least for me, twin needles were more prone to breaking.

(Of course, you can always fold your hems up and straight stitch them, if you’ve got a sewing machine that takes kindly to knits. Or you can use a zig zag. But if you just can’t stand not having that double stitched goodness, try a twin needle.)

*Some older machines will not be compatible with the twin needle. Also, I’ve heard through the grapevine that some machines require that you set your machine to a zig-zag stitch when you’re using a twin needle. Both of my machines used a straight stitch, though.

Sewing 101: lingerie stitch

For things like stretch lace, where you’ll often be sewing it on top of the hem, you don’t want the stitching to show.

I like to use a lingerie stitch in this case. It looks like a zig-zag stitch made of tiny straight stitches, and it blends in really well with stretch lace trim.

 

Buttonholes!

A lot of machines these days come with a buttonhole attachment. The problem is, I’ve never been able to figure out how the hell you use the blasted thing. So I do it the “old fashioned” way, according to the directions provided by the manual for my 60′s Kenmore.

I’ve found that something more like this works better for me. Remember to do a very tight zig-zag, like the guide above says, the stitch length should be almost to zero so the stitches lay right next to one another like a satin stitch in embroidery.

If you use a small piece of light fusible interfacing on the inside of the fabric, your button hole with look nicer and last longer.

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