Sewing Machine Number 8!

August 27, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews

Sewing machines now outnumber The Living in our house 2 to 1.

A few years ago when Mr. Smarmy and I first bought our house, my parents bought this sewing machine for me. It’s a vintage Singer Red Eye treadle (i.e. pre-electric) machine. Nicknamed Red Eye because it has really elaborate red and gold designs on it.

My dad wanted to refinish the walnut cabinet, so the cast iron treadle part and the sewing machine came home with me and waited for the rest of their parts to be finished. Yesterday was the day!

Here’s how the machine was brought to me:

There were about 20 pieces and over 50 screws...

Big screws, little screws, everywhere screws screws

Keep in mind I’ve never seen it put together… my dad bought it in pieces so HE’s never seen it put together. And there are NO INSTRUCTIONS.

The actual sewing machine component. Pretty lady!

Here’s the assembled cabinet with the machine tucked away underneath.

TA-DA!!

Partially unfolded… that grey/blue ugliness is a light someone attached. It’s also been converted to an electric machine, so I’m going to plug it in later and see how that goes, though I’m planning on getting a belt for the treadle and reconverting it back to it’s original unelectrifiedness. Fun for power outages! From the instructions I read online, it sounded like converting back and forth is fairly quick.

Peekaboo!

All set up and ready to go.

The decals on this machine are seriously awesome.

You can see in that last one that the finish is a little dull on the machine. I’m going to look into make it bright and shiny again. Or does it look cooler this way since you can tell it’s old?

It took me about 3 hours to put it together. And I won’t lie, I enjoyed it. I like assembling stuff. This cabinet is so well made, I didn’t really feel like I was at much of a disadvantage not having instructions… all the pieces fit together really nicely and just make sense. Anyway, if you ever buy a bunch of furniture from Ikea, I would be happy to put it together for you.

I’ll probably do some more internetting to find out about dates and such, but now that it’s all put together, I think it’s a pretty standard Singer 66. At least the picture I found of the manual looks exactly like mine when it’s all folded up!

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AttackoftheCraft!

April 1, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews, Contests

1 Comment

Check out the interwebs’ newest craft discussion forum and WhatTheCraft partner site, AttackoftheCraft.com!

AttackoftheCraft welcomes Crafters, DiY Artisans, and Lovers of Handmade. Come share your DiY knowledge, ask a crafty question, find supply resources, or just hang around and chat!

To celebrate their debut, AttackoftheCraft is having a contest:
The member who refers the most people in the month of April will win an $80 gift card to Joann Fabrics or Amazon.com!

Sign up, get your referral code, and spread the word!

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Sewing Machines for $200-300

March 6, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews

Sewing Machines for $150-200

March 6, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews

1 Comment

This is Part 3 of the Official WhatTheCraft Sewing Machine Recommendation List!

How did I choose the machines on this list? Online consumer ratings, my favorite shopping buddy.

*I should mention that unless otherwise noted, I have not personally tested these machines.*

The recommendations have been broken up into several groups by price.

$150-200

Brother CS6000i

Brother CS6000i - $169 on Amazon

Amazon rating: 4.5 stars, 258 reviews

PatternReview rating: 2 would recommend, 1 might recommend, 1 would not recommend

Ebay rating: 5 stars, 27 reviews

Overstock rating: 4.6 stars, 264 reviews

Specs: 100 stitch functions, operates with or without foot control, buttonholer, zipper foot, free arm capability, drop in bobbin, speed control

Runners Up

Janome 115110 / Kenmore 19110

Janome 115110/ Kenmore 19110 – $199 refurbished on Overstock

PatternReview rating: 12 would recommend, 0 might recommend, 0 would not recommend

Overstock rating: 4.8 stars, 10 reviews

Sears rating: 4.5 stars, 51 reviews

Specs: 110 stitch functions, buttonholer, zipper foot, free arm capability

Euro-Pro 7500XH

EuroPro 7500XH - $190 on Amazon

Amazon rating: 4.5 stars, 20 reviews

PatternReview rating: 2 would recommend, 1 might recommend, 0 would not recommend

Ebay rating: 5 stars, 3 reviews

Specs: 42 stitch functions, buttonholer, zipper foot, free arm capability

When in doubt, check out the reviews on Amazon or sewing.patternreview.com.

Tags: sewing machine budget, sewing machine recommendations, sewing machines for 150 to 200 dollars, sewing machines for under 200 dollars

Sewing Machines for $100-150

March 4, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews

2 Comments

This is Part 2 of the Official WhatTheCraft Sewing Machine Recommendation List!

How did I choose the machines on this list? Online consumer ratings, my favorite shopping buddy.

*I should mention that unless otherwise noted, I have not personally tested these machines.*

The recommendations have been broken up into several groups by price.

$100-$150

Janome 11590 / Kenmore 16231

Janome 11590 / Kenmore 16231 – $145 refurbished on Overstock

PatternReview rating: 24 would recommend, 1 might recommend, 2 would not recommend

Overstock rating: 4.7 stars, 15 reviews

Specs: 90 stitch functions, presser foot adjustment, buttonholer, zipper foot, free arm capability, drop-in bobbin

Brother XR9000

Brother XR9000 – $135 refurbished on Overstock

Amazon rating: 4.5 stars, 3 reviews

Overstock rating: 4.7 stars, 28 reviews

Specs: 120 stitch functions, operates with or without foot control, buttonholer, zipper foot, free arm capability and larger quilting table attachment

Runners Up

Brother XR 7700

Brother XR 7700 – $145 refurbished on Overstock

Amazon rating: 5 stars, 1 review

Overstock rating: 4.6 stars, 17 reviews

Specs: 110 stitch functions, operates with or without foot control, buttonholer, zipper foot, free arm capability

Janome 11706 / Kenmore Mini Ultra

Janome 11706 / Kenmore mini ultra – $109 on Overstock

(The Janome model is a Hello Kitty sewing machine… I know, how cute.)

Sears rating: 5 stars, 30 reviews

PatternReview rating: 5 would recommend, 0 might recommend, 0 would not recommend

Overstock rating: 4.8 stars, 36 reviews

Specs: 2 stitch functions, 3/4 size

Notes: Yes, it’s very small and very cute. My instincts tell me that a lot of people buy this machine because it’s so damned adorable. And then when it turns out to be not a complete piece of crap, they give it a good review. I would estimate that you’re paying at least $50 for the Hello Kitty name and cuteness. For a similar price, you can get a lot more machine in terms of stitches, durability and attachments/accessories. It would be very nice to give to a kid or for someone that only does very small sewing jobs here and there.

Tags: sewing machines for 100 to 150 dollars

Sewing Machines for Under $100

March 4, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews

Which Sewing Machine Should I Buy?

March 4, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews

2 Comments

And by I, I mean you.

It’s one of the most common questions in the sewing world, heard from beginners and seasoned seamstresses alike.

A few notes about what to expect from your sewing machine:

If you are buying new, you should not expect a machine under about $150 to be able to handle heavy duty work, i.e. several layers of fabric, denim, fleece, etc. I really wouldn’t expect any new machine under about $300 to be able to handle heavy duty work, at least not very well, though some machines will claim to be heavy duty anyway.

I must advise against buying sewing machines at Walmart. Walmart contracts (and often forces) companies to outsource the manufacturing of their machines to Walmart’s cheaper factories. The result is a machine with the same brand name and model number as sold in other stores, but of lesser quality (thus the lower price). I learned this fact the hard way.

Vintage Machines are King (or Queen)

If you’re on a budget, consider buying a used machine, particularly the vintage all metal models. In fact, even if you’re not on a budget, I’d highly recommend looking into vintage machines before buying new. I’d take a vintage machine over a new one any day. There’s a reason they’ve lasted 30, 50, 100 years. (And that’s the reason sewing machine manufacturers started making the all plastic hunks of junk in stores today… if your product lasts 50 years, it’s going to be a while before you get a repeat customer.)

Why?

Oh vintage sewing machines, how I love thee, let me count the ways:

Vintage sewing machines are workhorses. My vintage machines laugh in the face of heavy fabrics.
Vintage machines were made at a time that quality manufacturing was the norm.
Vintage machines are CHEAP!!

Where do you find vintage machines? Start out asking around your family. Lots of moms and grandmas have perfectly good machines stashed away in the attic. Can’t get much better than free!

You can also often find great vintage machines on Craigslist, Ebay, and at garage sales and thrift stores. I have a 1940′s Singer 301 that cost me $30 at a garage sale.

What to look for: If a vintage machine works, you’re pretty much golden. When you’re out looking, take a scrap of fabric and a spool of thread with you to test the machine to make sure it does work. If you can’t test it and you buy it anyway, only to get home and find out it’s not functioning, find a sewing machine repair shop and take it in. A repair and a tune up (which even a working machine could benefit from) will still cost hundreds (and even thousands) less than a new machine of the same caliber.

A few possible issues with vintage machines- most of them lack the dozens of decorative stitches that come on newer machines. Honestly, for most people this shouldn’t be an issue. Decorative stitches are one of those silly things stores like to brag about on the machine specifications, but no one ever uses them. 400 decorative stitches, la de da! I’ve been an avid seamstress for 7-8 years, and I’ve probably used the decorative stitches on my machines once or twice.

Some machines (the Singer 301, for example) are straight stitch machines, meaning they don’t even do a zig zag stitch. (The 301 does have a zig zag attachment, but it really isn’t convenient or practical.) A zig zag stitch allows you to make buttonholes, sew with stretch fabrics, do bar tacks, and more.

How to decide if you need a zig zag machine:

If you need a machine that can be used to make a variety of things (clothing, bags, curtains, pillows, etc.) you should have a zig zag machine.
If you know you will be doing a lot of heavy duty work (leather, denim, items with many layers), a workhorse straight stitch machine would be fine.
If you have room for more than one machine, a heavy duty straight stitch machine is a fantastic asset.
If you know you’ll only be able to have one machine at a time, make sure you get a zig zag machine.
If you are new to sewing, get a zig zag machine.

The second issue with older machines is a by-product of their indestructible all-metal construction: they weigh a TON. These are heavy heavy machines. If space, storage, and especially portability is an issue, a new machine might be a better idea.

Now that I have hopefully made my case for vintage machines, on to the new machine recommendations.

Sewing Machines for under $100

Sewing Machines for $100-150

Sewing Machines for $150-200

Sewing Machines for $200-300

Tags: how to choose a sewing machine, purchasing your first sewing machine, sewing machine buying guide, vintage sewing machines, what sewing machine should i buy

Quickie Guide to Copyright Law

January 31, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews, Selling Handmade

10 Comments

There are two subjects that make most brains explode: accounting and law. But for the good of mankind, I will attempt to tackle some questions regarding copyright that may be floating around your head.

Please keep in mind that I’m not a legal expert. I have researched this topic well, and I’ve talked to some experts. Also, this applies only to the United States, I’m sure other countries will differ.

Q. You sell reconstructed band shirts, isn’t that infringing on the band/artist’s copyright?

A. No. Assuming I’m buying properly licensed t-shirts (which I am), I can do pretty much whatever I want with them. The “first sale doctrine” allows the lending, reselling, disposing, burning, etc. of an item after purchase. That’s why people can sell their used CDs and DVDs (and band shirts) on Ebay. As long as I’m not reproducing a band’s design or logo, I’m okay.

Q. Can I stencil or screenprint shirts with my favorite band’s logo?

A. No. Whether you are making a Rolling Stones shirt for yourself or a friend (and thus not getting money for it), or you are making 10 Rolling Stones shirts to sell (without permission from the owner of the copyright or trademark), no.

Even if you aren’t making a profit off of someone else’s work, you are still reproducing it without their consent. Of course, there’s not much chance you’d get caught in either of the above scenarios, seeing as you and me are small potatoes and not worth anything to the big kahunas. But wouldn’t it be more fun (and rewarding!) to come up with your own designs?

The same goes for any other reproduction methods.

Q. But I see people selling that kind of stuff all the time…

Yeah, I know. It happens all the time. It goes unpunished and unnoticed more often than not. Like I said, there’s little chance that most companies will even notice you’re doing it. Does that mean you should do it?

In my opinion, I’d rather buy an original work than a copy or a bootleg.

Important note: The internet is an awesome resource for sharing information. One of the unfortunate drawbacks is that we are so used to all of the images, ideas, etc. being so freely available, we start taking things for granted. The same rules for big companies and brands goes for “regular” people, too. Just because you find an image you like on the internet doesn’t mean you can use it. Someone somewhere created that image.

In fact, it’s my opinion that infringing on a regular joe’s copyright is a much bigger offense than ripping off a big company like Disney. Us little guys gotta stick together!

SO, if you want to make a necklace with a cupcake on it, don’t just google “cupcake” and yoink an image you find. DRAW YOUR OWN. Or take a photo. Make it your own.

Q. I made this really cute dress with a Simplicity sewing pattern, but the patterns says, “Private Use Only”, can I sell it?

Q. I made this really cute dress with Strawberry Shortcake fabric. The fabric says “Intended for Personal Use only.” Can I still sell it?

A. Yes. That little disclaimer means nothing, and in essence, goes against the First Sale Doctrine. As long as you are not duplicating the actual sewing pattern or printing bootlegged Strawberry Shortcake fabric, you have not violated the copyright.

Caveat #1: Companies print those warnings in hopes that you’ll listen to them and not sell what you make. Some of them will also contact you with threats in hopes that you’ll quit selling your items.

I’ve been contacted by companies more than once regarding this kind of thing. Usually, when I explain to them that I understand my rights under the First Sale Doctrine, they leave me alone. There are a handful of companies (Harley Davidson, Disney, etc.) that are not so easily swayed. And unfortunately for us, when a big company like that decides to push hard, us little guys don’t usually have the means to push back. My rule of thumb is to keep doing what I’m doing until I get a cease and desist order from a lawyer. (Which hasn’t happened yet, knock on wood.)

Caveat #2: Trademarks… most companies have trademarked their brand name. So they might claim that an item you’re selling called “Strawberry Shortcake dress” is a trademark violation, and they’d be correct. Easy fix: Name your item something NOT trademarked, “Dress made from Strawberry Shortcake fabric” would be kind of boring, but it’d work. And then include a disclaimer in your listing that states, “This item is made from licensed Strawberry Shortcake fabric, however, I am in no way affiliated with Strawberry Shortcake.”

Q. How do I copyright my stuff?

A. Technically, as soon as you write, draw, etc. your creation, it’s yours. You can register your work with the U.S. Copyright Office, but it is not required. BUT- you will not be able to bring a lawsuit for copyright infringment unless you’ve registered your copyright. Silly, yes?

It should be noted that you can’t copyright certain things, like “useful articles”. Examples include clothing, furniture, dinnerware, etc. This means, you can’t copyright pants, or a couch, or a spoon. You can copyright the artwork printed on the shirt, and the print on the fabric of the couch, and the ornamental design on the spoon.

Now let’s test your copyright knowledge with the copyright quiz!!

more on copyright law

10 copyright myths

U.S. Copyright Office

NOLO’s Legal Guide for Starting & Running a Small Business

What’s a serger?

January 31, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews

2 Comments

A serger is a specialized sewing machine. Sometimes it’s called an overlock machine. It will generally use 4 threads and 2 needles. There are some machines that can also use 5 threads, and most machines have options that use 1 needle and 2 or 3 threads.

Brother 1034D

A serger makes a very professional looking seam. The threads lock around the seam to prevent fraying, and the machine also cuts off the seam allowance as it sews. Additionally, serged seams are ideal for stretch fabrics because the stitches can stretch with the fabric. Sergers are very fast and make sewing knits much easier.

A serger is not a stand-alone machine- it can’t replace a standard sewing machine in most situations. You need to have the standard sewing machine for things like topstitching, zippers, and sewing inside corners.

What does a serged seam look like?

serged edge

I often hear people ask how to make stitches that look like the seams on the inside of a t-shirt. That’s a serged seam.

(The hems of most t-shirts are coverstitched. Some higher end sergers have a coverstitch feature. But if you’re on a budget, here’s how to “fake” a coverstitch.)

Do I have to have a serger?
Well, it depends on what kind of sewing you do and how often you do it. You technically don’t even really need a standard sewing machine. Lots of people like to sew by hand. I don’t.

If crafting and sewing is just a hobby, and you don’t know if you’ll stick with it forever, a serger can probably wait, especially if you don’t have $2oo to burn. You can always keep an eye out for used sergers on Ebay and Craiglist, or wait until you’re fully addicted to sewing and have decided a serger is something you can’t live without.
If you sew a lot for yourself or your kids, and you work with a lot of knits and stretch fabrics, a serger will make your life a million times faster and easier.
If you’d like to produce clothes or other sewn items for sale, a serger will make your stuff look more professional.

So the short answer, in my opinion, is No.

I’ve seen “overlock” foot attachments for standard sewing machines, but I’ve honestly never used one or seen one used. I can’t say how comparable it is to a genuine serged seam.

If you’re going to sell your items, and you don’t have a serger, just make sure you pay special attention to your seams. Use pinking shears on the edges of woven fabric to keep it from fraying. On knit fabrics, trim your seam allowances to about 1/4″ after sewing, and then finish the edges with a tight zig-zag. Most people wouldn’t even know the different between that and a serged edge.

Tags: do i have to have a serger, what is a serger, what is an overlock machine, what is an overlocker

So You Wanna Be An Indie Fashion Designer – Part 2

January 31, 2010 by Lex
Filed under Articles + Reviews, Selling Handmade

7 Comments

In the Beginning
So you think you’ve got the skill down, and you’re ready to start selling? Fantastic. But not so fast, my friend. There are a few things to consider first.

Buy Handmade v-neck shirt by phippsart

Find a Niche
Before you can start making cash, you need to know what you’re going to sell and who you plan on selling it to. In my opinion, the best and easiest way to be a successful indie designer is to find a small, specific group of people to sell to, at least in the beginning.

Too often people try to cater to everyone, when they’d be better off focusing on a smaller group. You are not Wal-Mart. You can not compete with Wal-mart (at least not directly). You need to be the Anti-Wal-mart! High quality, hand made, unique goods are how you indirectly compete with big business. Offering a product or a unique design that people can only get from you is going to be what separates you from the competition and motivates customers to come back for more.

NOFX T-shirt Pillow Cover by FabulouslyFierce

Sell What You Know
If you’re going to make clothing, think about what you wear and what you like. Find what makes your style unique and start there. If you dress in neon colors from head to toe and despise earth tones, it wouldn’t really make sense for you to be making bohemian hippie clothes, would it? And if you don’t know who/what/where NOFX is, then why would you try to make and market clothing to P-rockers?

I’m not saying you have to want to wear every single item you make, but you’ll have a better chance of selling your stuff if your customer’s taste is similar to yours. Don’t just jump on the bandwagon and sell whatever happens to be trendy right now. Firstly because trends don’t last. And secondly, because if you aren’t into what you’re making, it will show in your work.

Do Your Homework
Take a look around the internet (assuming that’s where you want to sell), and do some research. What sells and for how much? Where can you get deals on supplies? Keep in mind that if you’re shopping at your local craft store for supplies, you’re paying retail. Wholesale prices are generally much lower, which means a higher profit margin.

DEATH AND TAXES CUFF by gretchenvoneberstein

You might try finding basics (for me, it’s black knit fabric) in bulk to start with, since you may not be able to afford buying everything in bulk when you’re starting out. Some wholesale suppliers require a Sales Tax ID. How you get one (in Michigan, you fill out one form, super easy and free) varies from state to state, so do some research and figure it out.

And Now for the Boring Business Stuff…
I know, it’s the stuff no one wants to think about, but if you want to be your own boss, someone’s gotta do it. And that means you.

Legal Smeagol
Well, my precious, legal stuffs for small businesses will differ from city to city, state to state, country to country. It’d be best for you to do some research about your area, but some things you’ll probably need and/or want:

a sales tax license from your state. When you sell something to someone that lives in your state, you must collect sales tax. Ick? Yes. However, the benefit to having a sales tax license is that you get a sales tax ID, which many wholesale distributors require before you can set up an account with them. Wholesale supplies = lots of money-saving awesomeness.
a DBA or “Doing Business As”. If your name is Shirley Wolf, but your business name is going to be “Chocolate Kitty Rollercoaster”, you might want to think about getting a DBA. It will allow you to receive payments under the name of “Chocolate Kitty Rollercoaster” and prove that you are the owner when you want to do stuff like cash a check.
a business license. You’ll have to do some research to figure out if this is required in your area.

Location, Location, Location
I know a lot of people dream of opening their own brick-and-mortar boutique, but for most of us, the start up costs make that impossible. Rent, utilities, employees…. That’s why the internet is a great way to dip your toes into the River of Selling Crafts. But even then you must consider where you’re going to sell.

Here are some popular options, and their grades from Ms. Smarmy (that’s me!).

Etsy (A): A site specifically geared towards handmade, and ONLY handmade, goods. Fair fees (20 cents gets you a 3 month listing!), less

handmade pride - 1 inch buttons by offtherecord

deadbeats than Ebay, and a nice community feel. You don’t have to worry about coding, their selling template is as easy as writing a description for your item and uploading pictures. You’ll need to put a fair amount of work into marketing yourself, because this is a large marketplace. If you don’t keep your name out there, you might get lost in the shuffle.

Your own website (B-): An excellent choice if you’ve got time on your hands to dedicate to your business, and if you’ve got a fair amount of coding know-how. If you don’t know anything about making a website, you can hire someone to do it for you, but you’ll need at least a little knowledge to keep things running. I recommend Adobe Dreamweaver, I’d be lost without it.

You’ll also need to spend a lot of time and effort promoting. With Etsy at least some of that work is done for you. With you’re own site, you’re on your own. The benefit of your own site is that once the customer’s there, it’s just you. Zero competition. And you cut your fees in half, assuming you’ll still use Paypal or another credit card processor. You’ll need to factor in start up costs of about $70 to cover your domain name registration and hosting plan.

Consignment or Wholesale (C): This can be a good option if you don’t have the time to answer customer emails and photograph/list/ship items. Wholesale prices are usually discounted about 50% from your retail prices and sold outright to the wholesale buyer when they buy from you in bulk. Consignment means you send your items to a shop, and they’ll charge a fee (usually around 40%) when your item sells. I don’t think this is a very good option for most sellers (at least those who are capable of doing the selling/shipping themselves), because nearly 50% of the price is a LOT to a handmade seller. See the next section on pricing, and you’ll see what I mean.

My advice is: if you are doing consignment, look for a place that’s been around for a while. See if you can email someone that’s consigned with them in the past to ask about their experience. Make sure they’ve got some sort of contract/agreement that clearly states they are responsible for your goods while they are in their possession and how long the items will stay in the shop before being returned unsold.

Ebay (D-): This is where I started, but Ebay has really started losing favor among sellers of handmade and non-handmade goods alike. Fee hikes, stricter guidelines for sellers, and the inability for sellers to leave feedback for buyers have made it a risky place to sell. I give it a big thumbs down. The fees and competition will make it difficult for a newbie seller to gain any ground, but try it if you dare.

Tags: how to sell your craft, Selling Handmade, selling your craft, starting a craft business, starting a handmade business