How to Insert a Snap – video tutorial

Here’s my newest tutorial video – inserting snaps with the handy dandy Snapsource SnapSetter Tool. This one’s a quickie!

Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel!  There are lots more tutorials to come (including appliques and t-shirt collars)!

And if you have any tutorial requests, leave me a comment!

This tutorial was filmed using a Creative Labs Vado HD Digital Video Camera, a Canon Rebel (for still shots), and edited in Sony Vegas Movie Studio.

Sewing 101: lingerie stitch

For things like stretch lace, where you’ll often be sewing it on top of the hem, you don’t want the stitching to show.

I like to use a lingerie stitch in this case. It looks like a zig-zag stitch made of tiny straight stitches, and it blends in really well with stretch lace trim.

Sewing 101: backstitching

This is one of those things that you wouldn’t know about unless you’d had someone show you, and if you already know how to sew, you’d forget that beginners don’t know!

Your sewing machine should have a button or a lever (it’s different from machine to machine) that can make the machine stitch backwards. This is perfect for securing the ends of seams so your threads don’t just unravel.

On my newer Singer, it’s a large button/bar that you slide down, and it’s labeled with a little symbol that looks like a U-turn. On my vintage Kenmore, it’s a button with a big “R” on it (reverse). On my vintage Singer, the stitch length lever pushed all the way to the top position is reverse.

You’ll want to backstitch at least twice to make sure the seam is secure – that means when you get to the end of your seams, you’ll go backward, forward, backward, and then forward again.

For the purposes of the diagram, my backstitching was kind of messy- I wanted to show each back-and-forth motion. You want to try to line up those stitches on top of each other as best you can.

Sewing 101: seam allowances

I don’t mention it in most tutorials, but you should always add a seam allowance when you cut out your pieces.

EXAMPLE: You are making a tube top with a bust of 36″. When you are cutting out the pieces, add an inch (or a 1/2 inch, it’s up to you) on each side. This will give you room to sew seams and hems, and it will also give you room for mistakes.

In this example, a piece that will measure 18″ across when completely finished will measure 20″ when you cut it out.

If you find that you make a lot of mistakes when you’re sewing, and you have to cut and sew the same spot so many times that you lose a few inches in the process, OR if you aren’t very good about measuring yourself, you might want to increase your seam allowance. That’s what it’s there for anyway, it gives you some room to make mistakes! And hey, mistakes are good! That’s how you learn.

technique tutorial: zippers

Zippers! Another one of those techniques that everyone seems afraid of!

Fear not, zippers are another one that are super easy once you learn a few tricks and practice a bit.

Difficulty:

For this tutorial, I’ll be inserting a skirt zipper, but the same process can be used for zippers in hoodies, bags, and more, but you’ll need to pay attention to the TYPE of zipper you buy depending on your project.

Standard/conventional zippers are open at one end and closed at the other. That’s the type of zipper we are using for this tutorial. They are suitable for pants, skirts, dresses… anything that you only need to open from one end.

Separating zippers open at both ends, like on a jacket or hoodie. Make sure you buy a separating zipper if you’re planning on making either of those things.

Closed ended zippers are closed at both ends, which makes them perfect for pillow covers and bags. You can easily convert a standard zipper to a close ended zipper by stitching the open end closed.

As far as zipper material, it’s mostly a matter of preference. If you want a non-intrusive zipper, go with a nylon zipper. If you want it to show, I’d recommend metal or plastic.

I’m putting the zipper into the back center seam (between the two back pieces). You could also put the zippper into the side seam of the skirt, but it lays better in back.

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tutorial: making a super basic pattern

First let me say that pattern making is a pretty advanced skill. It’s not really something I recommend you start out with immediately, mostly because you will probably end up really frustrated. It’s hard. You have to take 2 dimensional (i.e. FLAT) pattern pieces and make them fit your curvy, lumpy body.

I recommend starting out with storebought patterns, because you’ll get a chance to see what a pattern looks like, and what the basic pieces are shaped like.

But if my words of warning are not enough to sway you, I suppose I have no choice but to give you my crash course in making a very VERY basic pattern.

Difficulty:

Step 1

Grab yourself a t-shirt (preferably a crappy one you won’t mind cutting to pieces) that fits you like a potato sack.

Put it on inside out.

Pin it so it fits. Pay special attention to the curves of your bust, waist, and hips and your armpits. You might want help from a friend at this point, because it can be kind of tricky to hold the fabric in place on yourself AND pin.

Pin so it’s snug, but not tight. The fabric of the t-shirt should not be stretched.

Step 2

Now, if you took it off and laid it flat, and drew lines to connect all the pins, you’d have something that looks like the drawing below.

So do it. Make yours look like mine.

Once you’ve got the lines drawn, remove the pins.

Step 3

Cut about 1/2″ to 1″ outside the lines for the seam allowances. You should end up with something like this for the front piece.

 

Step 4

If you draw lines from the pits to the shoulders and cut, you have a standard fitted tee pattern. Hoorah!

 

Step 5

Cut here, and you’ve got a perfect tube top pattern!

 

Final Notes:

You’ll probably want to take these pieces and transfer them to paper. It stores more easily and is easier to cut around than hunks of t-shirt.

Any kind of paper will do. Some people like tissue paper, but I think it rips too easily. Paper bags will work, but they’re a little thick. I prefer the brown packing paper that comes in a lot of shipping boxes, or blank newsprint. Wrapping paper also works well and looks pretty. My favorite stuff is tyvek. It’s what they make the UPS and post office envelopes out of, and it is IMPOSSIBLE to rip.

That’s it. It’s probably not how the professionals do it, but it should give you somewhere to start if you’re dead set on jumping head-first into pattern making.

Choosing the Right Needle

Using the wrong needle can make your sewing life a living hell. If your machine is skipping stitches or creating a lovely ball of thread on the underside of the fabric when you try to sew, and you’ve tried replacing the needle with a new one, it may be the wrong type of needle.

Universal needles are intended for most sewing projects. They work well with woven fabrics.

If you are working with knits, you should use ballpoint needles. They have a rounder edge than universal needles, which prevents the needle from snagging or cutting the fabric.

There are other kinds of specialty needles besides ballpoint. For example, there are special needles for sewing leather (made to make holes that close up on themselves) and denim (made to sew through many layers of thick fabric).

Most needle packages are marked with two sizes. The higher number is the European size. The lower number is the American size.

Here’s a quick guide with a list of some common types of fabric for each weight and the corresponding appropriate needle size.

Weight/Type of Fabric	Needle Size (American)
Very Lightweight (chiffon, voile, organza, silk, etc.)	8 or 9
Lightweight (tricot, lightweight lycra, taffeta, etc.)	9, 10, 11
Medium-weight (muslin, broadcloth, flannel, most knits and jerseys, wool, satin, etc.)	12 or 14
Heavyweight (tweed, twill, sweatshirt fleece, fleece, etc.)	14 or 16
Very Heavyweight (denim, duck cloth, canvas, heavy upholstery/home dec fabrics, etc.)	16 or 18

Measuring, fitting, and patternmaking

If you’re using the tutorials on this site, please keep in mind that almost all of them are intended to be used with stretch fabric (t-shirts, knit, jersey, interlock, etc.). Why? Because the fabric stretches, you can be a lot less accurate with fit, and you don’t need to mess with darts!

If you’re a decent seamstress, you can probably adapt some of them to non-stretch fabrics pretty easily by adding an inch or two here and there, and by planning for some sort of closing/opening device (zippers, buttons, etc.).

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Sewing Machine Troubleshooting Guide

Unfortunately, I can’t really help you learn to use your machine through the internets. That’s what Grandma’s are for.

If you’ve never used a sewing machine before, I highly recommend you either take a class or have someone who knows what they’re doing help you out. If you’re buying from a dealer, ask them to give you a quick lesson on at least threading the machine.

All machines are bound to be a little different, so even if you have used one before, take a look at the manual if you are using a new machine. I was threading a new machine wrong for 2 weeks before I actually looked up the manual online, and realized I had been skipping a step! Luckily, I wasn’t doing anything so wrong that it could do damage. It is possible to do something so wrong that you’ll break the machine before you even get to use it, so you might as well get friendly with the manual.

General Maintenance

Big Tip #1: DO NOT FORCE THE HANDWHEEL. If you put the bobbin in, and it won’t turn, something’s wrong. Forcing it is likely to break something.

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Must-Have Tools of the Trade

When you first start a particular craft, it can be hard to know what tools you’ll really need.  And no idea what some things even are! Here are some handy tools I can’t live without.

Figure 1 – General sewing, cutting, pattern making related tools

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