circle skirt tutorial – new and improved!
November 14, 2009 by Lex
Filed under 3 Pin (Moderate) Tutorials, Clothing, Sewing, Tutorials + How Tos, WhatTheCraft.com Tutorials
The awesome thing about circle skirts is that once you get the idea, you can use the same premise to make a variety of different styles all based on a simple circle skirt.
skirt by SmarmyClothes.com
This tutorial is for a classic circle skirt (think 50′s style poodle skirt). The other variations of the circle skirt can be found here.
If your circle skirt turned out ginormous and you’re left scratching your head, check this out.
Difficulty:
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Step 1
Cut a waistband out of stretchy fabric or stretch lace. It should be large enough to stretch over your hips, but small enough that it stays put on your waist. For shiggles, let’s say our example waistband is 40″ wide.
Step 1
Step 2
I’m skipping ahead here for just a second to show what our end goal is.
What we want at the end of all of this is to wind up with a big donut shaped piece of fabric with the center hole’s circumference matching that of our waistband, so for our example, 40″.
Step 2
Step 3
Thar be math ahead!! Don’t worry, it’s not hard, and I’ll walk you through it.
If you’re a little rusty on your geometry, let’s revisit. The circumference is the measurement aroouuuund the outside of a circle. The radius is the measurement from the center point of the circle to any point on the outside of the circle (the diameter goes all the way across the circle, and is two times the radius, but we don’t really need that here).
Step 3
Step 4
MATH STUFF! HUZZAH! I’ll bet you love math as much as i do, so this part will be So Much Fun.
Before you try to skip the math and wing it, read this.
In order to cut an accurately sized hole (40″, remember?), we need the radius of the circle.
NOW…
let’s pause for a minute. I’m not going to go into great detail about this, but there’s something called ‘bias’ with fabric. It has to do with how the weave of the fabric effects the way the fabric drapes.
Cutting on the bias will make the fabric stretch. When you make a circle skirt, you’re going to wind up cutting part of it on the bias- no matter what you do, it can’t be avoided. Even with a non-stretch, woven fabric, it will stretch. Stretch fabrics will REALLY stretch when cut on the bias.
So if you’ve ever made a circle skirt, and you’ve done ALL the math right, and it still turned out a little too big, we shall blame bias.
To counteract bias, we need to make the hole smaller than we think we need it. So we will subtract 4 inches from the 40″ we are shooting for. That gives us 36″.
I know 4 inches sounds like a lot, but trust me here. You always want to shoot for smaller with a circle skirt (unlike most other things where larger is more easily fixed), because that can be fixed by cutting the hole bigger!
So even though we want a 40″ hole, we are going to do the math for a 36″ hole.
To get the radius, we use this equation:
radius = circumference divided by 2 times pi
and
2 times pi = 6.28
SO
radius = (36″) divided by (6.28)
radius = 5.7″
which is about 5 3/4“
Step 5
The next step is figuring out how much fabric we need. Circle skirts require a decent amount of fabric, so sometimes you’ll need to make your fabric donut out of 2 or even 4 different pieces of fabric.
Here’s how you figure it out:
Take your desired skirt length (minus the waistband), in our case it’s 16″, and add it to the radius measurement.
(Remember to account for hems and seam allowances!)
5.75 + 16 = 21.75″
Now multiply that times 2 and we have 43.5″.
Your piece of fabric must be at least 43.5″ in length and width in order to cut a circle skirt in 1 continuous piece.
Generally fabric comes in 45″ and 60″ widths, so as long as your piece of fabric is long enough, a skirt with these measurements is not a problem.
However, if you want a really long skirt, you will most likely have to piece together your giant donut in halves or quarters.
Step 5
NOTE!
This isn’t so much a step as a note, because the drawing illustrates a particular concern with circle skirts. Patterns. That top little skull guy is going to wind up being upside down on our skirt. Maybe you don’t care, that’s cool, but it’s something to keep in mind. One-way patterns will be upside down and sideways at various points on the skirt. If that bothers you, see the next step. If you cut your skirt in quarters with all of the pattern pieces oriented so the pattern stays right-side-up, you can avoid this issue.
You can avoid this by choosing patterns that aren’t one-way. Polka dots work fine. Or you can use one-way patterns to your advantage to get interesting designs. Stripes, for example, look pretty cool on a circle skirt because the stripes take on a curvy appearance. See an example here.
Looking for cute fabric? Try Fabric.com
Step 6
Okay, take a deep breath… we’re almost done.
If you have determined you can cut your skirt in 1 continuous donut, fold your fabric in half. And then in half again, so it’s folded in quarters. Make sure you get nice neat folds… you don’t want it to look sloppy like my drawing. And you don’t want wrinkles.
From the folded corner, measure 5 3/4” out from that point in several places and then connect the dots with a curving line, so that you have a quarter circle. Each point along the quarter circle should be 5 3/4” away from the center point. (see the blue dots in the drawing.)
Now do the same thing for the length measurement. You could measure 16″ from the 5 3/4″ line, but you’ll get more accurate results if you measure from the center point again. So just add those two together and measure 21 3/4″ from the center. (purple dots)
Cut where you’ve marked and…
Step 6
Step 6 b.
If you’ve determined you won’t be able to cut your skirt in one continuous donut, you will wind up cutting your fabric something like the examples below.
Step 6 b.
Step 7
Ta-da!
Look familiar?
Laying flat, the middle circle will be 36″, but when you open it up and let gravity have a tug at it, it’ll be much closer to 40″.
Measure it to make sure, and if you need to make it a little bigger, go ahead. Just take a sliver off that inner circle to make it a little bigger. Go slow, because like I said before, too big is harder to fix than too small.
Step 7
Step 8
Attach the donut to your waistband, and you’re done! If it turned out a little bigger than your waistband, just stretch the waistband a little as you sew them together.
You can use this same idea to add a flounce hem to a dress or skirt.
Done!
Okay, so now you’ve mastered the circle skirt. What else can you do with it? Check these ideas out!
Star on Tue, 6th Jul 2010 6:14 pm
Just wanted to say your links dont work on this page
Lex on Fri, 9th Jul 2010 1:45 pm
Oops! Fixed, thanks!
TriVia on Mon, 2nd Aug 2010 9:51 am
I think this is an interesting tutorial, i love poodle skirts and i am looking forward to trying this. I am a beginner sewer so wish me luck.
Jessica on Wed, 4th Aug 2010 9:24 pm
Thanks for the awesome tutorial! Would this need to be lined to wear as a normal skirt that will be made from a heavier fabric for Fall/Winter? What fabrics do you suggest?? Thanks!
Lex on Wed, 18th Aug 2010 6:39 pm
Thanks and good luck!
Lex on Wed, 18th Aug 2010 6:49 pm
You’re welcome!
In my opinion, linings are optional unless something is clingy and/or see-through. But maybe that’s my laziness talking.
Pretty much any fabric will work. Stiffer woven fabrics will stand up a little more, like a poodle skirt. Though true poofiness definitely requires a petticoat. Knits tend to drape more, so they look a bit more flowy.
Laura on Sat, 11th Sep 2010 4:00 am
Thanks so much…. I will definitely try this.
I would like to make the skirt for my ballroom dancing (waist 29, hip 37, length 30-32 inches). Would this work?
Then for this skirt, or another style (perhaps 6 or 8 gores or a-line) I’d like to add the circular wired hem ruffles of pagaeant children’s skirts. The ruffle at the bottom of any existing or new sewing skirt would really be effective and beautiful on the dance floor.
I’d love any information you could give me via a tutorial or directing me to a source to start working from.
Thanks!
Laura
Lex on Sun, 12th Sep 2010 8:35 pm
Hi Laura-
This would definitely be a good starting point for you, I think. Take a look at the Circle Skirt Variations tutorial here for some other ideas using this same basic tutorial:
http://whatthecraft.com/circle-skirt-variations-tutorials-pixie-skirt-and-more/
Do you have a picture of the kind of hem you’re talking about?
Becky Dent on Sat, 19th Feb 2011 9:59 am
I am confused as to how your math works out. If you add your radius of 5.75 to itself you get 11.5″.(See step 5) How does that work out to a 36″ circle for your hips?
Lex on Sat, 19th Feb 2011 11:56 am
The formula to figure out the circumference (which would be the 36″ hip measurement) is 2 x pi x radius. So 2 x 3.141 x 5.75 = 36.1215.
becc on Thu, 14th Apr 2011 12:20 pm
yay! thanks for this very awesome tutorial. I was given a big felt poodle cut out today so of course I HAVE to make a poodle skirt now. Can’t wait to get started, and can’t wait to look around more at your blog!!
Leah on Tue, 3rd May 2011 7:37 pm
Please help! So i have used your tutorial a few times now ALWAYS doing the math and my skirts are coming out short. I think it is the length of fabric that is doing it. However i am using pretty standard size fabric… so.. what the heck and i doing wrong????
I am about average height 5’5. So far to make up for it i have been adding extra at the bottom or creating larger waist bands.
Any thoughts?
Lex on Tue, 3rd May 2011 9:28 pm
Hi Leah-
I’m not sure I understand. Are you, for example, trying to make a 15″ long skirt and it always turns out shorter than that? If that’s the case, I’d suggest adding extra length to account for the seam allowances.
Or are you making a (to use the same example) 15″ skirt and it’s just not long enough for you? In that case, I’d suggest just making longer skirts.
If you’re trying to make a fairly long circle skirt, and the fabric isn’t wide enough, you’ll have to cut it in pieces (as opposed to one giant donut). Step 6b in the tutorial addresses how to do that.
Leah on Wed, 4th May 2011 1:52 pm
oh sorry. Yes I am trying to make a skirt that will reach my knees. So far all the ones i have done have come out short- as in longer than a mini but short enough that i wont be doing any bending over. I think step 6b would totally work for me, thanks for pointing that out. I would like to try it, but i guess i dont totally get how it works as far as measuring etc goes?
thank you so much for posting the tutorial and answering all my questions!!
Lex on Wed, 4th May 2011 8:39 pm
I would start by finding a skirt with a length you like and measuring that. Or you can use a tape measure- hold it up to your waist and decide where you want the skirt hem to fall. If you wear your skirt at your low waist, 20″ should be about knee length.
If you take a look at Step 5, it shows you how to calculate the amount of fabric you need to cut a skirt in one continuous piece. Using the measurements in the tutorial, a skirt that’s 20″ long would require the fabric to be at least 52″ (I’m rounding up from 51.5″).
If you’re using quilting cotton or calico fabrics, they’re generally 43-44″ wide. You’d need to make the skirt in 2 pieces in that case. When I have to do that, I like to make the pattern on a piece of paper first. Then all you have to do is fold it in half and cut 2.
Knit fabrics are usually 54-60″ and Home Dec fabrics are usually 54″, so there are fabrics out there that could be used to make a longer circle skirt in one piece.
Gini on Tue, 5th Jul 2011 6:37 pm
What would I have to do if I wanted the waistband on a circular skirt to be not made with a stretchy material but have a zip to do up instead?
Lex on Wed, 6th Jul 2011 12:36 pm
Hi Gini! You could trim the edge with bias tape. Or you could make a faced waistband. I’ll have to work on some new tutorials for these as I don’t think I’d do a very good job of explaining them only in text!
Faith on Sat, 23rd Jul 2011 8:50 pm
So does it ruffle by itself? sorry im a beginer
Lex on Sun, 24th Jul 2011 1:27 pm
Hi Faith! Yes, circle skirts have a naturally ruffled edge. If you do extra full circle skirts or very long circle skirts, the result can be quite a lot of ruffles, like this: http://smarmyclothes.com/images/dresses10/table_04.jpg
miranda on Tue, 16th Aug 2011 12:04 am
Getting back to the non-stretch waistband–could you use a regular, straight waistband (cutting notches within the seam allowance of the donut hole to attach) with a zipper? I guess I’m thinking that if you are going to use a stretch waist and pull it on, the donut hole needs to be big enough to go around your hips (rather than your waist).
Lex on Tue, 16th Aug 2011 12:56 pm
You can absolutely attach a non-stretch waistband and add a zipper!
Donna Cogburn on Sat, 20th Aug 2011 5:28 am
Love your page. Alot of very good material, will help me make most of my stuff easier. thanks and keep up the good work.
Charlotte on Tue, 25th Oct 2011 2:00 pm
i love that you explain this so well i have never made a skirt before but i do have skills in making other things i plan to try this out
. thank you for explaining it so well.
Jen on Mon, 7th Nov 2011 2:14 am
So, what happens if I want the skirt to be ( a lot) longer for a 7 yr. girl, yet I do not have enough fabric for the length? Do I sew more fabric onto the initial fabric and then fold the great big piece?
I want the length to be about (ugh… haven’t measured her since she was 5)..25 inches long. The longer the skirt, the more years she can wear it!
thanks!
Cassandra on Mon, 12th Dec 2011 8:18 pm
This is FANTASTIC!
Also, do what she says and subtract 4” due to bias. I thought that was crazy and went only 2”. My fabric has no stretch to it. But as gravity came down on my skirt, it started to slip off of my waist. Should’ve went the full 4”.
Susan on Tue, 13th Dec 2011 9:25 pm
Thanks again for all your tutorials! This worked great for me, I adapted by doing some of that math stuff and making panels that when stitched together, make a nifty circle skirt in different fabrics. I’ll send a picture when it’s all done if you like
Lex on Thu, 22nd Dec 2011 4:08 pm
I would love to see it!
Lex on Thu, 22nd Dec 2011 4:11 pm
One thing to remember also is that if you’re trying to cut your circle skirt in one piece, it’s going to be much easier to make the hole a bit bigger than to try to make it smaller. Obviously you could add a seam, but that kind of defeats the purpose of cutting in one piece in the first place.
So yes, err on the side of a smaller waistline, and make it bigger if you need to.
Diana Sproul on Fri, 3rd Feb 2012 1:59 am
Someone read your blog and gave you credit (and link), and made an Excel spreadsheet. It will help you figure out it all, and account for seam allowances. However, your tutorial says use 4 inches for the subtraction for bias stretch. And you can always remove some at the waist to make it bigger.
Here is the link: http://pattythesnugbug.com/2011/circle-skirt-calculator-for-the-drafting-of-full-half-and-34-skirts-with-bonus-grading-worksheet/
Lex on Fri, 3rd Feb 2012 4:44 pm
Awesome, thanks for sharing that link!
Irene on Sun, 5th Feb 2012 3:24 am
Miranda wrote: could you use a regular, straight waistband (cutting notches within the seam allowance of the donut hole to attach) with a zipper? I guess I’m thinking that if you are going to use a stretch waist and pull it on, the donut hole needs to be big enough to go around your hips (rather than your waist).
No, no! You cannot cut notches within the seam allowance of the hole. Not even for dolls clothes or for Halloween costumes. Where the notches are it will fray, or have holes, or whatever. Yikkes!You have to cut a separate long piece of material and make a separate waistband (with or without fusible interfacing), which you will then attach. If the hole is like your waist, you need a zipper. If the hole is like your hips, then you need an elastic inside the waistband. You don’t need to make the hole like your hips, you can pull it down from your arms, then it only needs to be as your bustline (if this is smaller than your hips) Smaller hole is better for fat ladies because there is less bulk where you don’t need bulk. If you’re thin and you’re trying to add to your hips, definitely make the hole bigger and put an elastic inside the waistband.
Genna Rose on Tue, 28th Feb 2012 3:11 pm
Hi
So saw a tutorial on youtube just like this one, but I went searching for more tutorials simply because of the problem I saw with the way the skirt drapes when finished.
I’m afraid of making this skirt and having the sides lay higher than the front and back as I saw in some pictures.
What’s the best way to avoid this?
I want to make a circle skirt with lots of ruffles that lays evenly at the bottom like this: http://www.buzzreactor.com/sites/default/files/Ariana-Grande-17(1).jpg
Lex on Tue, 28th Feb 2012 6:54 pm
Hi Genna-
First, the dress in the photo looks to me like it has a gathered skirt versus a circle skirt.
But to answer your original question: the length issue with a finished circle skirt is the result of bias. Gravity makes the parts of the skirt cut on the bias stretch out a little over time. Luckily, there’s a very easy fix. Before you hem the skirt, put it on a hanger and let it hang for a few days, which will allow the bias to stretch. So let it stretch, and then even it out before hemming. Problem solved!
Genna Rose on Tue, 28th Feb 2012 11:11 pm
Thank you
My mother kept trying to explain to me that it needed to be cut specially and different patterns were showing it cut in a more square shape than circular.
As for the photo, she said in an interview that it was just a circle skirt someone made for her, so i’m not sure.
Also, I was wondering if the amount of times you fold the fabric before cutting affects anything. I saw a tutorial where the fabric was folded into 1/8 instead of 1/4.
And if I wanted more ruffles could I just make the radius measurement longer and sew it to the original waist band?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to have my pattern down before ruining a great piece of fabric
Lex on Tue, 28th Feb 2012 11:48 pm
I have seen some “cheater” circle skirts that are cut with a slit instead of a circle and that would definitely result in hem length differences.
As long as your measurements stay the same, it wouldn’t matter if you folded it in 1/8 instead of 1/4. Just less cutting.
You can absolutely make the radius longer, and then you’ll wind up gathering the extra length into the waistband, so you’ll have a gathered circle skirt, which is probably what hers is.
Jen on Tue, 13th Mar 2012 11:33 am
So if i’m going to use a non-stretch waist band with a zipper would i cut the waist piece the same length as the adjusted waist measurement? I.E. if my waist is 25 inches, i cut 21 inches due to bias stretch and the waist band i measure out is 21 inches, also? I’m confused since the skirt itself is cut on the bias allowing for stretching but the waist band piece is not cut on the bias so it may not stretch to match the diameter of the inner circle. any advice is appreciated, i don’t want to have that moment where the skirt only fits my cat or something, thanks!
Lex on Tue, 13th Mar 2012 11:47 am
A waistband should be made to fit your waist measurement. So the waistband would be 25″, and you’d cut the circle at 21″, which will then stretch to fit the 25″ waistband.