You guys have begged and begged, and it only took me five years to put together an updated version of my original bag tutorial that shows how to add a zipper. Since you waited so patiently, I’ll show you how to add a zipper at the top of the bag, but also… ZIPPER POCKETS! Everything is better with zipper pockets.
Watch the tutorial video or continue on for the text/photo version of the tutorial. (Most of the photos can be enlarged if you click on them.)
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Look at that extreme zipper action! Woo!
Alright, let’s do this!
Step 1
Assemble your materials, as shown in the graphic below. If you want to make a bag with different dimensions, knock yourself out! I’d recommend making a paper “mock-up” first, so you can determine what size to make the gussets, etc. (I’ll be using a 1/2″ seam allowance for this bag unless otherwise noted.)

(Note: If you watch the video and the D-ring Loop Strap dimensions are listed as 18″ x 2″, that is incorrect. The correct dimensions are 18″ x 4″. I tried to fix it via the Youtube “annotations,” but I don’t know if the correction always shows up.)
You can add interfacing to your bag if you want more structure.
This tutorial includes instructions for a zipper pocket. You can add up to four- you’ll need a piece of fabric and a zipper for each pocket.
I’ll also show how to add some extra snazziness to the straps with a little D-ring detail. If you want some snazz, make sure you have fabric for the D-ring strap and four 1″ D-rings.
Step 2
I’m starting with one of the zipper pockets. If you’re not adding a zipper pocket, skip to Step 15.
Determine where you want your zipper pocket (lining or exterior). Mark the center of the main bag piece, and then draw a line 2″ from the top. These marks should be on the RIGHT side of the fabric.

Step 3
Mark the pocket piece like so. First, mark a line on the WRONG side of the pocket 1.5″ from the top. (blue line below)

Mark two more lines – one 1/4″ above the blue line and the other 1/4″ below the blue line. (purple lines below)

Measure 1″ in from each side and mark. (red marks below)

Make a little triangle from the newest line, with the point meeting the original blue line.Â

Lastly, mark the top center of the pocket.

Step 4
Lay the pocket on the main bag piece, RIGHT sides together. Line up the middle line on the pocket with the line on the main bag, and make sure the center marks on each piece line up.

Step 5
Pin the two pieces together.

Following the marked lines, sew a rectangle as shown below.

Step 6
Cut along the middle line, stopping when you reach the point of the triangle.

Cut the sides of the triangle, getting as close to the stitching as possible without cutting the stitches.

Step 7
Fold the bottom of the pocket up and slip it through the slit you just cut.

It’s like you’re feeding the pocket to itself. (CANNIBAL!)

Pull the whole pocket through to the other side and smooth it out as much as possible around the stitching.

Step 8
Press the pocket opening with an iron on both sides.

If you still have some creases on the pocket side, that’s okay, but try to get the main bag side as crisp and crease-free as you can.

Step 9
Here’s a sneaky zipper trick: instead of pinning the zipper, you can use a gluestick to glue the zipper to the bag. That’s right! A regular old elementary-school-style gluestick!
Your standard gluestick is a water-based adhesive, which means it will wash right out with a little soap and water. I wouldn’t bother washing the bag to get the glue out, unless you really glob it on there. But if you use this technique when you’re making clothing, that washing step comes in handy. 🙂

Glue up the zipper tape and then press it to the bag. The zipper should be closed, with the pull visible in the pocket opening.

Give the glue 10-15 minutes to dry. If you have other pockets to prepare, you might as well do that while you wait!
Step 10
Topstitch around the zipper. If the zipper teeth extend past the opening, stop and lift the needle over the zipper teeth. If you try to sew through them, you might break a needle. And broken needles are poopy.

Step 11
If your zipper teeth extend past the edges of the pocket fabric, trim enough to leave at least 1/2″ between the end of the zipper and the edge of the pocket.
(My zipper and pocket fabric magically changed colors because this is a different pocket. 😛 )

Step 12
Fold the pocket in half, bringing the bottom edge up to the top.

Pin the pocket RIGHT sides together.

You only want to pin through the pocket layers. Don’t pin the main bag layer.

Pin all the way around the sides and top of the pocket.

Step 13
Sew around the sides and top of the pocket using a 3/8″ seam allowance, which should keep you from sewing through any zipper teeth. Again, make sure you’re only sewing through the pocket layers. Don’t sew through the “main bag” piece.

Step 14
Pause to admire your very fancy, very elegant, professional AF zipper pocket. You’re like some kind of pocket wizard.

Step 15
D-ring strap time! Again, this step is optional. You can do basic straps if you want. But who wants to be basic?

I made a tutorial faux pas and picked a fabric that is the same on the Right and Wrong side. So I marked the Wrong side with chalk so I don’t confuse you. Or me.

Fold the D-ring strap fabric in half, hot-dog-style.

And then press with one of these fabric toasting contraptions. (Mine is literally called a ToastMaster. I kinda want to make grilled cheese sandwiches with it like that scene in Benny & Joon. Especially if Johnny Depp was going to come help me out. Wait… what were we talking about again?)

Step 16
Now we have a nice line pressed right down the middle of our D-ring strap fabric.

Fold one raw edge up to meet the center line.

Then fold down the other side.

And then commence with the toasty-toasty.

Step 17
With both raw edges still folded in, fold in half again, along the original center line.

The raw edges should now be completely encased in the middle of the strap.

Time to press!

And then we pin along the open edge.

Step 18
Sew the strap closed, stitching about 1/8″ from the edge. Repeat the stitching on the unpinned (folded) edge, for symmetry.

Step 19
Cut the strap into four equal pieces.

Insert one strap into each D-ring.

Then fold the strap around the flat edge of the ring.

Step 20
Repeat for all 4 D-rings, and pin the straps in place.

Step 21
Stitch the straps to the D-ring, and baste the raw ends as well.

Step 22
Decide where you want your straps, remembering to leave room for the seam allowances and gussets.Â

I decided on 3″ from the edge.

Pin the D-ring straps to the exterior Main Bag pieces (not the lining).

Step 23
Baste the four D-ring straps to the two exterior Main Bag pieces.

Step 24
Time to attach the top trim to the exterior Main Bag.

Pin the top trim to the main bag, Right sides together.

Like a boss.

Step 25
Stitch using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 26
Press the seam toward the Main Bag, so the D-ring strap is in the “up” position. Repeat the last two steps for the other exterior Main Bag and top trim pieces.

Step 27
Now we’ll address the lining. Let the zipper magic begin! Take one Main Bag lining and Top Trim lining and get them situated like so.

Gluestick (or pin) the zipper to the top trim piece, Right sides together.

Step 28
Stitch the zipper to the top trim using a zipper foot.

Trim any excess from the end of the zip.

Step 29
Gluestick or pin the top trim to the main bag, Right sides together. The zipper should be sandwiched in between.

Step 30
Stitch through all three layers (top trim lining, zipper, main bag lining) using a zipper foot.

Step 31
Open the new seam.

Press the seam toward the top trim and topstitch.

Step 32
Flip the top trim out of the way, so the free edge of the zipper is exposed.

Pin the top trim to the Wrong side. Note: This is a temporary step just to keep the top trim out of the way while we sew the rest of the zipper. So don’t forget to remove those pins when we’re done!

Step 33
Gather the remaining Main Bag lining piece and Top Trim lining piece. We’re going to repeat the same steps as before.

Glue or pin the free edge of the zipper to the Top Trim lining piece – Right sides together. Baste it.

Glue the zipper/top trim to the Main Bag lining. Stitch it.

Press and topstitch the seam. Remove the temporary pins I mentioned before.

Step 34
At this point, I like to baste the top of the zipper closed to keep it from flopping open during the next few steps.

Also, make sure you unzip the zipper part of the way before the next step.

Step 35
Now that we have all these layers, it gets kind of tricky to make things clear just using photos, so you might want to consult the video if this part gets confusing. Grab one of the exterior pieces and pin the Top Trim exterior to the Top Trim lining.

Right sides together, natch.

Stitch using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 36
Open the seam.

Rearrange all the layers so you have the raw edge of the remaining Top Trim lining exposed.

Find the remaining exterior bag piece and pin the Top Trim of the exterior to the Top Trim of the lining. Basically we’re just repeating Step 35. Hurray!

Stitch it!

Step 37
Rearrange all those flappy layers so that you have the two exterior pieces facing one another, and the two lining pieces facing one another.Â

Pin the bottom of the exterior and the bottom of the lining Right sides together. (My bag is laying sideways, so the “bottoms” are to each side.)

Step 38
Then we’ll pin the sides. There are a few things you want to take note of here.

The first is that you want to make sure the seams line up on the exterior of the bag.

And also where the top trim of the exterior and lining meet. I like to start pinning there first to make sure it’s nice and neat.

I spy with my little eye: a zipper. Make a note of where the zipper is, because we don’t want to sew over it.

Step 39
To the sewing machine! 1/2″ seam allowance for the bottoms and sides.

Here’s the important part. We’re not going to sew over or through the zipper. At all. We don’t want any part of the stitches to even touch the zipper tape, actually. So sew as close to the zipper as you can without sewing through it. Then stop and backstitch. Hop over the zipper and start stitching again on the other side.

Step 40
Ain’t no party like a gusset party, ’cause a gusset party don’t stop!

Open up the gusset. Like a gaping mouth hole.

Line up the seams.

And then smush the mouth hole closed, and pin it shut. (I know, things just got weird. Just go with it.)

Step 41
Pin both of the mouth holes — I mean gussets — closed on the main bag. For the lining, pin only one gusset. Sew the three pinned gussets with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 42
Inside-out time!

Reach inside of the gusset we left open and grab the opposite side of the bag.

Pull it through until everything is Right-side-out.

Step 43
Time to shut that last gusset’s mouth for good.

Line up the seams, just like we did for the other three gussets.

This time, we’re going to fold in the raw edges about 1/2″.

And then pin it closed.

Step 44
Stitch approximately 1/8″ from the edge. Now you might be thinking, “But Lex, why don’t we go about this the professional way, and handstitch the last gusset closed so the seam will be invisible?” And I press my finger to your lips and say, “Shhhhhh! It’s the lining. No one’s going to even know. It’s not even there. Shhhh.” I won’t tell if you won’t.

Step 45
Quick! Hide the evidence! Stuff the lining into the exterior.

Step 46
We’re so close now. Let’s finish this top edge.

You could press this seam with an iron. I just kind of smash it into place and pin it. Sometimes I’m a little uncouth like that.

Pin all the way around the top.

Step 47
Topstitch about 1/8″ from the edge.

Step 48
The straps. FINALLY! (You’ll note that I used two different strap-making methods on this bag. The D-ring strap was the “double fold” method, which is ideal if you want the strap to be all the same fabric. You can just as easily use the same method for these straps, assuming you don’t want the two-tone look. Just remember to cut the fabric for the strap four times wider than the finished strap. Our D-ring straps, for example, are 1″ wide. So we started with a 4″ wide strip.)
But if you do want the two-tone look:

Line up one front and one back, Right sides together.

Pin.

Step 49
Stitch around 3 sides of the strap, leaving one end open.

Repeat for both straps, and then trim the excess seam allowance. Pinking shears optional.

Step 50
Use the closed end of the strap to help turn it Right-side-out.

Step 51
Once the straps are turned out, you can cut off the closed end and press flat.

Step 52
Determine which side of the strap is the inside and which is the outside. Press and pin the raw edges 3/8″ toward the inside.

Baste.

Step 53
Wrap the strap around the D-ring and pin in place.

Repeat for both ends of each strap.

Step 54
Stitch the strap in place. I like to use a double row of stitching to make it extra secure.

Hey… you’re not going to believe this but… we’re done!

The end.
Luna Moth Bag
2015-2016
P.S. This tutorial is dedicated to the luna moth bag featured in the tutorial itself. The luna moth bag met a tragic end when some thieving dickbag broke into my car and stole my purse. (The most annoying thing is that I’m 99% sure he dumped the bag on the side of the road, as he did my shitty $5 phone when he realized it wasn’t something valuable like an iPhone. So my bag is probably out there somewhere, moldering in the weeds. I even did a drive-by where a biker found my phone, but there was no sign of the bag. RIP luna moth bag!)
38 thoughts on “How To Make a Bag with a Zipper”
I can’t thank you enough for posting this tutorial! The original purse was my first ever sewing project, but now that I’m a bit better, I can’t wait to get into zippers and make a super fab bag to show around town!
Great tutorial! Do you have this written out and for purchase?
LuLaRoe by Arctic Sun
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I haven’t had a chance to write this one out in text/photo format yet, unfortunately!
Love this so much! Just wondered if there is a way of having a cross body strap rather than two handles?
Absolutely! I always encourage putting your own spin on a bag design. Although… the way the bag is assembled, it would be difficult to attach the strap where one would normally attach a single, cross-body strap, UNLESS you attach the strap after the bag is fully assembled. (And there’s not really a reason you can’t do that. Just fold the raw edges of the strap under so they’re hidden once you stitch the strap to the bag.
Otherwise, you can attach the strap during the bag assembly like so:
My little drawing assumes the bag turns out very cube-like, but that was only to make the illustration more clear. 😀
The important part is to give the side seams a wide berth when placing the strap in the seam. I’d attach it at least 1.25″ from the side seam to avoid any troubles.
I just found you….what a GREAT tutorial. I’m going to add this one to my already overflowing stash of patterns that I have good intentions to make but probably will never do…..haha.
I LOVE your style and quirkiness….you are jawsome!!
MEOW!!
Beautifully explained 1 more project to used my leftover fabric thank you
Love this purse! Can’t wait to give it a try. It will be my first time working with zippers.
Do you have this pattern written out where I may print it off?
Hi Tami-
Unfortunately I don’t have this tutorial written out in a text/photo format yet. Hopefully soon!
The tutorial is now available in text/photo format. Thanks for the reminder! 😀
Great tutorial!!!can we add interfacing in the pockets and lining?
Absolutely!
Thank you, Lex! I can’t wait to try this. Your detailed instructions, and the video, are very well done. Bravo.
Hi again, Lex! I have now made two of the bags. I love the bag and your tutorial! I am going through my fabric looking for more candidates…
Do you have a trick for securing the zipper to each end of the bag? Also, is there a tutorial for your fabulous hoodie?
Thanks
Nicky
What kind of material did you use?? Love it, gonna start this after the weekend 🙂
All fabrics are 100% cotton quilting-weight woven fabrics.
I’ve watched the video and now these instructions. I am so excited to make some of these. Do you have any tutorials or instruction on how to make a matching wallet? That would be great!
I don’t have a wallet tutorial at the moment, but I will put it on my “to do” list!
I found this tutorial on YouTube and watched it several times to get all the how-too’s. I have made 2 of this purse one the original size of the pattern and then a larger one for my sister. Thanks a Bunch for posting all your tutorials!
Wow thanks for this can I just ask what type of material is best to use for a bag like this? Thanks again. X
Apologies just seen reply to same question in earlier comments x
Thank you for the amazing amount of time and effort you put into making this tutorial. The level of detail is incredible.
Thank you so much for your video and all your time you give us, it is greatly appreciated and you are such a joy to watch!
Hi Ms. Very Talented!
My first time filling out a comment card. You are amazing. I watch/read DIY’s on sewing a lot. You are by far, the most natural, smart, funny and have the most understandable DIY’s on my list.
Love your style, humor and professionalism all mixed into one gifted young lady!
Thank you so much for teaching and sharing with the world! I’m learning so much!
Wow, thanks Marcia!
Does this completely close in the zipper ends? I feel like it can’t be this easy! I have been looking for the method to do that and it seems to be very elusive – or I just don’t know the correct term for what I am looking for. I can do recessed zippers in a tote with end gaps in my sleep but I want to do closed ends.
Both ends of the zipper are encased in a seam, if that’s what you mean. Sorry I don’t have better photos of the full zipper, but you can see it better (and in action) in the video, which might give you a better idea whether or not this is what you’re looking for: https://youtu.be/y5ksPmVkStg?t=13m41s
Just made this bag, put 5 zipper pockets in and put lining pockets, too…but I needed a much bigger bag so gonna adjust the measurements and make me another one, thanks for having clear instructions, enjoy your tutorials ….
very good tutorials
I absolutely love this pattern! It is my favorite purse. Have made two for birthdays and they were so well received that i already have fabric lined up to make 3 more for gifts. The purse is a nice size and the zipper pockets (I put one on outside and inside) were much easier than I imagined.
Thanks for spending the time to do all this and share with us!
Thank you for this awesome tutorial! I made my first ‘complicated’ bag last night using this (as in not just a tote). The pockets turned out great which I attribute mostly to shouting “Cannibal!” as I stuffed it through the gap.
Also the glue stick tip is gold and I got to pass it on today to someone whose hem came down.
I watched the YouTube tutorial and thought I have to make this. There is no way this can go so smoothly and look this good. The tutorial here and the video made this so easy. I appreciate you doing this. I’ve been so nervous to try these zipper pockets but thanks to you it was so easy to do. I put the one on the outside and one on the inside they turned out great. It was much easier to do the zipper pockets than I ever imagined. Thanks again. I will be looking for more of your tutorials. Thanks again. You rock.
I’m so glad to hear that! Thanks, Melissa!
I am also wondering if this is a recessed zipper. I can’t find ANY tutorials online that features a NON-recessed top zipper. Yours here looks like it is recessed but no end gaps? Am I seeing that correctly?
It is recessed, but there are no end gaps. It’s assembled a bit differently than most recessed zipper bags I’ve seen.
If you want a non-recessed zipper, your best bet is probably something like the method shown on my zipper pouch: https://whatthecraft.com/how-to-make-a-zipper-pouch-diy-sewing-tutorial/
I have watched the video a few times and read thru the pattern too. I have been on the youtube rabbit hole watching bag videos trying to decide which one I want to make myself and I keep coming back to this bag. I can’t wait to get started. Just need to get the d rings…and will grab some strap buckles so I can make them adjustable 🙂 love this bag and your great detailed instructions. Thanks.
Finished it tonight. Used interfacing and fusible fleece for the exterior….next time I will skip the fleece altogether. Made 4 zipper pockets! Never made pockets in a bag like this and I love them! Thanks foe the great directions and video tutorial. Plan to make more bags in other fabrics…maybe will use some of my wizard of oz fabric stash for the next one!
This updated bag tutorial is fantastic, Lex! Your detailed instructions and tips for adding zipper pockets make it so much easier. Can’t wait to try it out for my home decor projects! Thank you for sharing!