For a pencil skirt, you’re going to want a relatively strong fabric. It also helps if the fabric has some stretch to it. Stretch twill works well. A heavier non-stretch fabric would also work. You can even use a thicker t-shirt knit or spandex, especially if you don’t want to fuss with a zipper and darts.
The key to a great pencil skirt is fit. To get a good fit you need good measurements.
First, you need to decide if you want the skirt to go all the way up to your natural waist, or just to your low waist.
If you want the higher waist, use the four measurements shown. If you want it at your low waist, you don’t need to measure your natural waist. Read more…
If you’re using a standard sewing machine and trying to reconstruct t-shirts or sewing on knit fabrics, you’ll want to use a zig-zag or stretch stitch. The zig-zag allows the stitch to stretch with the fabric, so it doesn’t break when you try to get your newly reconstructed t-shirt on or off.
If you plan to be sewing a lot with stretch and knit fabrics, you might want to consider investing in a serger (sometimes called an overlock machine).
A serger is a special sewing machine that uses 3, 4, or 5 threads. It trims off the seam allowance and sews “around” the seam, locking the edges to prevent rolling and fraying.
Sergers are very well suited to sewing stretch fabrics because it’s stitch allows for a significant amount of stretch without breaking- more than even a zig-zag stitch.
Sergers aren’t cheap, but there are some decent inexpensive models on the market. One I can personally vouch for is the Brother 1034D.
You still might wind up being stuck sans serger for a while, so if you can’t resist the urge to sew with knits and other stretch fabrics in the meantime, here are a few more tips if your sewing machine tends to go Cookie Monster on your fabric:
If the sewing machine sucks the fabric into the machine or forms a big wad of thread on the underside when you first start sewing, try sliding the edge of the fabric about an inch or so past the foot when you first start sewing. You can also try wrapping a piece of tape or tissue paper around the edge of the fabric to add extra stability. It may also help to sew the first few stitches by turning the wheel by hand manually.
Make sure you’re using a ball point needle for knits. Standard sewing machine needles are made for woven fabric and can snag the fibers of knit fabric. Some machines are very temperamental about this. Others are not.
You can try an overlock attachment, but I have no experience with them. From what I’m told by those that have, it is NOT really anything like using an overlock/serger machine, it merely makes stitches that look like it.
If you’re having trouble keeping your seams straight, you probably just need some more practice. Go slow- don’t put the pedal to the metal just yet. Some machines are really fast, so you’ll need to practice keeping steady pressure on the pedal at a speed you can keep up with. It’s really a lot like driving.
You can also get a handy little tool called a Seam Guide. It’s a little magnetic doo-dah that sticks to the plate of your sewing machine. You adjust it to fit your seam allowance, and then while you’re sewing, line it up with the edge of your fabric.
Seam guides should be readily available at your local craft/sewing supply store like Joann Fabrics.